Abantu abaninzi bacinga ukuba umsebenzi "womyili wefashoni waseTshayina" waqala kuphela kwiminyaka eyi-10 eyadlulayo. Oko kukuthi, kwiminyaka eyi-10 edlulileyo, ngokuthe ngcembe baye bafudukela kwiiveki zefashoni "ezinkulu ezine". Ngapha koko, kunokutshiwo ukuba kwathatha phantse iminyaka engama-40 kwiTshayina uyilo lwefashoniukungena kwiiveki zefashoni ze "Big Four".
Okokuqala, mandikunike uhlaziyo lwembali (ukwabelana apha ikakhulu kuvela kwincwadi yam "Ifashoni yaseTshayina: Iincoko nabayili befashoni baseTshayina"). Incwadi isafumaneka kwi-intanethi.)
1. Ulwazi lwemvelaphi
Masiqale ngohlaziyo lwaseTshayina kunye nexesha lokuvula ngeminyaka yoo-1980. Makhe ndikunike imvelaphi.
(1) Iimodeli zefashoni
Kwi-1986, imodeli yaseTshayina uShi Kai uthathe inxaxheba kukhuphiswano lwemodeli yamazwe ngamazwe kwindawo yakhe yabucala. Eli lixesha lokuqala ukuba imodeli yaseTshayina ithathe inxaxheba kukhuphiswano lwamazwe ngamazwe kwaye iphumelele "ibhaso elikhethekileyo".
Ngowe-1989, Shanghai wabamba ukhuphiswano lokuqala imodeli New China - "Schindler Cup" ukhuphiswano imodeli.
(2) Iimagazini zefashoni
Ngo-1980, imagazini yokuqala yefashoni yaseTshayina yasungulwa. Nangona kunjalo, umxholo wawusalawulwa ziindlela zokusika kunye nokuthunga.
Ngo-1988, imagazini ye-ELLE yaba yimagazini yokuqala yefashoni yamazwe ngamazwe ukufika eTshayina.
(3)Umboniso wokurhweba ngempahla
Kwi-1981, i-"New Haoxing Clothing Exhibition" yabanjwa eBeijing, eyayingumboniso wokuqala wempahla owawubanjwe e-China emva kohlaziyo kunye nokuvulwa.
Ngo-1986, inkomfa yokuqala yefashoni yaseTshayina yabanjwa kwiHolo eNkulu yaBantu eBeijing.
Kwi-1988, uDalian wabamba umnyhadala wokuqala wefashoni eNew China. Ngelo xesha, yayibizwa ngokuba yi "Dalian Fashion Festival", kwaye kamva yatshintsha igama layo "kwiDalian International Fashion Festival".
(4) Imibutho yorhwebo
I-Beijing Impahla kunye noMbutho woShishino lwamalaphu yasekwa ngo-Okthobha ka-1984, eyayingumbutho wokuqala wempahla yempahla e-China emva kohlaziyo kunye nokuvulwa.
(5) Ukhuphiswano loyilo lwefashoni
Ngo-1986, iChina Fashion Magazine yabamba ukhuphiswano lokuqala lwesizwe lwe "Golden Scissors Award" loyilo lwesinxibo, olwaba lukhuphiswano lokuqala loyilo lwempahla yobuchwephesha olubanjwe ngendlela esemthethweni eTshayina.
(6) Utshintshiselwano lwaphesheya
NgoSeptemba 1985, i-China yathatha inxaxheba kwi-50th International Women's Wear Exhibition eParis, eyayiyisihlandlo sokuqala emva kohlaziyo kunye nokuvula ukuba i-China ithumele igqiza ukuba lithathe inxaxheba kumboniso worhwebo lwempahla yaphesheya.
NgoSeptemba 1987, u-Chen Shanhua, umyili omncinci ovela e-Shanghai, wamela i-China okokuqala ngqa kwinqanaba lamazwe ngamazwe ukubonisa ihlabathi isitayela sabayili befashoni baseTshayina eParis.
(7)Impahla imfundo
Ngo-1980, iCentral Academy yezoBugcisa kunye neMisebenzi yezandla (ngoku iAcademy of Fine Arts yeYunivesithi yaseTsinghua) yavula ikhosi yeminyaka emithathu yoyilo lwefashoni.
Ngowe-1982, inkqubo yesidanga se-bachelor kwi-specialty efanayo yongezwa.
Ngowe-1988, inzululwazi yempahla yesizwe yokuqala, ubunjineli, ubugcisa njengowona mzimba uphambili wamaziko emfundo entsha yesinxibo semfundo ephakamileyo - iBeijing Institute of Fashion Technology yasekwa eBeijing. Umanduleli wayo yayiyiBeijing Textile Institute of Technology, eyasekwa ngo-1959.
2. Imbali emfutshane yabaqulunqi befashoni baseTshayina abasingise kwiiveki zefashoni ze "Big Four".
Ngembali emfutshane yoyilo lwefashoni yaseTshayina engena kwiiveki ezine zefashoni ezinkulu, ndiza kuyahlula ibe ngamanqanaba amathathu.
Inqanaba lokuqala:
Abaqulunqi baseTshayina baya phesheya egameni lotshintshiselwano lwenkcubeko
Kuba isithuba sinqongophele, nantsi nje abalinganiswa abambalwa abameleyo.
(1) Chen Shanhua
NgoSeptemba 1987, umyili we-Shanghai u-Chen Shanhua wamela i-China (izwekazi) eParis okokuqala ngqa ukubonisa ihlabathi indlela yabaqulunqi befashini baseTshayina kwinqanaba lamazwe ngamazwe.
Apha ndicaphula intetho kaTan An, usekela-mongameli we-Textile kunye neGarment Chamber of Commerce ye-All-China Federation of Industry and Commerce, owabelana ngale mbali njengowokuqala:
"Ngomhla we-17 kuSeptemba, 1987, ngokumenywa nguMbutho waseFransi wokunxiba wabasetyhini, igqiza leshishini lempahla yaseTshayina lathatha inxaxheba kuMnyhadala weFashoni weHlabathi weParis wesibini, lakhetha imodeli ezisibhozo kwiqela lemiboniso yefashoni yaseShanghai, laqesha iimodeli ezili-12 zesiFrentshi ukuba zenze amaTshayina. Iqela lomboniso wefashoni ukubonisa uluhlu olubomvu nolumnyama lwefashoni yaseTshayina ngumyili omncinci waseShanghai uChen Shanhua. Iqonga lomnyhadala wefashoni limiselwe kumyezo osecaleni kweNqaba ye-Eiffel eParis nakwiindonga ze-Seine, apho umthombo womculo, umthi womlilo kunye neentyantyambo zesilivere zikhanya kunye, njenge-fairyland. Ngowona mnyhadala wefashoni unomtsalane owakha wabanjwa ehlabathini. Ikwakweli nqanaba libalaseleyo lezizwe ngezizwe lenziwe ziimodeli ezingama-980 apho iqela elidlala ngesinxibo saseTshayina laphumelela iwonga kwaye lalungiselelwa ngokukodwa ngumququzeleli ukuba afowunelwe ngokwahlukileyo. Ukuqala kwefashoni yaseTshayina, kubangele uvakalelo olukhulu, abeendaba basasazekile besuka eParis besiya kwihlabathi, "uFigaro" ugqabaze: ilokhwe ebomvu nemnyama yintombazana yaseTshayina yaseShanghai, bayibetha ilokhwe ende kodwa ingelilo iqela elisebenza kakuhle laseJamani. , kodwa kwakhona ukubetha iqela lentsebenzo yaseJapan egqoke iziketi ezimfutshane. Umququzeleli wathi: I-China "lilizwe leendaba elihamba phambili" phakathi kwamazwe angama-18 kunye nemimandla ethatha inxaxheba kumthendeleko weFashion "(Lo mhlathi ucatshulwe kuMnu. Tan 'intetho)
(2) Wang Xinyuan
Ukuthetha ngokutshintshiselana kwenkcubeko, ndimele ndithi uWang Xinyuan, ongomnye wabayili befashoni abadumileyo eChina ngeminyaka yoo-1980. Xa uPierre Cardin weza eChina ngo-1986 ukudubula, ukudibana nabayili befashoni baseTshayina, bathatha lo mfanekiso, ngoko ngokwenene saqala ngokutshintshiselana kwenkcubeko.
Ngo-1987, uWang Xinyuan waya eHong Kong ukuze athathe inxaxheba kuKhuphiswano lwesibini lwaseHong Kong loLutsha loYilo lweFashoni kwaye waphumelela ibhaso lesilivere kwicandelo lelokhwe. Ezo ndaba zazimnandi ngelo xesha.
Kuyafaneleka ukukhankanya ukuba ngo-2000, uWang Xinyuan wakhupha umboniso kwi-Great Wall yaseChina. I-Fendi ayizange ibonise kwi-Great Wall de kube yi-2007.
(3) Wu Haiyan
Ukuthetha oku, ndicinga ukuba utitshala uWu Haiyan ukufanele kakhulu ukubhala. UNksz Wu Haiyan wayemele abayili baseTshayina kumazwe amaninzi amaxesha amaninzi.
Kwi-1995, wabonisa imisebenzi yakhe kwi-CPD eDusseldorf, eJamani.
Ngo-1996, wamenywa ukuba abonise imisebenzi yakhe kwiVeki yeFashoni yaseTokyo eJapan.
Ngo-1999, wamenywa eParis ukuba athathe inxaxheba kwiVeki yeNkcubeko yaseSino-French kwaye enze imisebenzi yakhe.
Ngo-2000, wamenywa eNew York ukuba athathe inxaxheba "kwiVeki yeNkcubeko yaseSino-US" kwaye enze imisebenzi yakhe.
Kwi-2003, wamenywa ukuba abonise umsebenzi wakhe kwifestile yeGalari Lafaye, ivenkile yokuthenga e-Paris.
Ngo-2004, wamenywa eParis ukuba athathe inxaxheba kwiVeki yeNkcubeko yesi-Sino-French kwaye wakhulula i-"Oriental Impression" yefashoni.
Uninzi lomsebenzi wabo awubonakali uphelelwe lixesha namhlanje.
Inqanaba lesi-2: Ukuqhawuka kwamanqanaba
(1) Xie Feng
Isiganeko sokuqala saphulwa ngo-2006 ngumyili u-Xie Feng.
U-Xie Feng ngumyili wokuqala osuka kwilizwe laseTshayina ukungena kwiveki yefashoni "enkulu yesine".
Umboniso waseNtwasahlobo/ehlotyeni weVeki yeFashoni yaseParis (eyayibanjwe ngo-Okthobha ka-2006) ukhethe u-Xie Feng njengomyili wefashoni wokuqala osuka e-China (elizwekazi) kunye nomyili wefashoni wokuqala ukuvela kwiveki yefashoni. Lo ngumyili wefashoni wokuqala wamaTshayina (elizwekazi) omenywe ngokusesikweni ukuba abonise kwiiveki ezine eziphambili zefashoni zamazwe ngamazwe (eLondon, eParis, eMilan naseNew York) - yonke imiboniso yefashoni yaphesheya yamaTshayina (enkulu) igxininise ukutshintshiselana ngenkcubeko. Ukuthatha inxaxheba kuka-Xie Feng kwiVeki yeFashoni yaseParis kuphawula isiqalo sokudityaniswa kwabayili befashoni baseTshayina (kwilizwe elisezantsi) kwinkqubo yoshishino lwefashoni yamazwe ngamazwe, kwaye iimveliso zefashoni zaseTshayina azisenazinto "zokubuka nje" iimveliso zenkcubeko, kodwa zinokubelana ngesabelo esifanayo kwimveliso yefashoni. imarike yehlabathi eneempawu ezininzi zamazwe ngamazwe.
(2) UMarco
Okulandelayo, mandikwazise kuMarco.
UMa Ke ngumyili wefashoni wokuqala waseTshayina (ezweni elikhulu) ukungena kwiVeki yeFashoni yaseParis Haute Couture
Umsebenzi wakhe kwiVeki yeParis Haute Couture wayengekho eqongeni ngokupheleleyo. Ngokuqhelekileyo, uMarco ngumntu othanda ukwenza izinto ezintsha. Akathandi ukuziphinda okanye abanye. Ke akazange athabathe uhlobo lomgaqo weenqwelo-moya wemveli ngelo xesha, umboniso wakhe wempahla wawufana nomboniso weqonga. Kwaye iimodeli azijongayo aziyomodeli yobugcisa, kodwa ngabadlali abanobuchule kwisenzo, njengabadanisi.
Inqanaba lesithathu: Abaqulunqi baseTshayina ngokuthe ngcembe bathontelana ukuya kwiiveki zefashoni ze "Big Four".
Emva kwe-2010, inani labaqulunqi baseTshayina (ezweni) abangena kwiiveki "ezine ezinkulu" zefashoni liye landa ngokuthe ngcembe. Ekubeni kukho ulwazi olufanelekileyo kwi-Intanethi ngeli xesha, ndiya kukhankanya uphawu, UMA WANG. Ndicinga ukuba ngoyena myili uphumeleleyo kwezorhwebo waseTshayina (omkhulu) kurhwebo lwamazwe ngamazwe. Ngokwempembelelo, kunye nelona nani lokwenyani leevenkile ezivulwe kwaye zangeniswa, uye waphumelela kakhulu ukuza kuthi ga ngoku.
Akukho mathandabuzo ukuba uninzi lweempawu zabayili baseTshayina ziya kuvela kwimarike yehlabathi kwixesha elizayo!
Ixesha lokuposa: Jun-29-2024
