Okwangoku, uninziiimpawu zempahlazifuna izatifikethi ezahlukeneyo zeempahla zelaphu kunye neefektri ezivelisa impahla zelaphu. Eli phepha lazisa ngokufutshane izatifikethi ze-GRS, GOTS, OCS, BCI, RDS, Bluesign, Oeko-tex textile ezigxile kuzo iimpawu eziphambili kutshanje.
1. Isiqinisekiso se-GRS
Umgangatho wehlabathi oqinisekisiweyo we-GRS wokuphinda usebenzise impahla yelaphu kunye nempahla; I-GRS ngumgangatho wemveliso wokuzithandela, wehlabathi, nopheleleyo ojongana nokunyanzeliswa kokuthengiswa kwempahla ngabathengisi bomxokelelwane wokubonelela ngokurhoxiswa kwemveliso, ulawulo lokugcinwa kwayo, izithako ezisetyenzisiweyo, uxanduva loluntu kunye nezenzo zokusingqongileyo, kunye nemiqathango yeekhemikhali, eqalwe yi-TextileExchange kwaye iqinisekiswe liqumrhu lesiqinisekiso somntu wesithathu.
Injongo yesatifikethi se-GRS kukuqinisekisa ukuba amabango enziwe kwimveliso efanelekileyo achanekile kwaye imveliso iveliswa phantsi kweemeko zokusebenza ezilungileyo kwaye ayinampembelelo ingako kwindalo kunye nempembelelo yeekhemikhali. Isatifikethi se-GRS senzelwe ukuhlangabezana nezithako ezifunyenweyo/ezisetyenzisiweyo ezikwiimveliso (ezigqityiweyo nezigqityiweyo) ukuze ziqinisekiswe yinkampani, kwaye kuqinisekiswe imisebenzi enxulumene noxanduva lwentlalo, iindlela zokusingqongileyo kunye nokusetyenziswa kweekhemikhali.
Ukufaka isicelo sesatifikethi se-GRS kufuneka kuhlangatyezwane neemfuno ezintlanu zokulandeleka, ukhuseleko lokusingqongileyo, uxanduva loluntu, uphawu lokuhlaziya kunye nemigaqo ngokubanzi.
Ukongeza kwiinkcukacha zezinto eziluhlaza, lo mgangatho ukwabandakanya nemigangatho yokucubungula okusingqongileyo. Ubandakanya iimfuno ezingqongqo zonyango lwamanzi amdaka kunye nokusetyenziswa kweekhemikhali (ngokwe-Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) kunye ne-Oeko-Tex100). Izinto ezibangela uxanduva loluntu nazo zibandakanyiwe kwi-GRS, ejolise ekuqinisekiseni impilo nokhuseleko lwabasebenzi, ukuxhasa amalungelo abasebenzi kwiMisebenzi kunye nokuthobela imigangatho ebekwe yi-International Labour Organisation (ILO).
Okwangoku, iimpawu ezininzi zenza imveliso ye-polyester ephinde yasetyenziswa kunye nemveliso yekotoni ephinde yasetyenziswa, nto leyo efuna ukuba ababoneleli belaphu kunye nentambo banike izatifikethi ze-GRS kunye nolwazi lwabo lwentengiselwano ukuze kulandelwe kwaye kufunyanwe isatifiketi sebrendi.
2. Isiqinisekiso se-GOTS
I-GOTS iqinisekisa i-global organicimigangatho yelaphuI-Global Standard for Organic Textile Certification (GOTS) ichazwa njengeemfuno zokuqinisekisa imeko ye-organic yelaphu, kubandakanya ukuvunwa kwezinto eziluhlaza, imveliso enoxanduva lokusingqongileyo kunye noluntu, kunye nokulebhelisha ukuqinisekisa ulwazi lwabathengi malunga neemveliso.
Lo mgangatho ubonelela ngokucubungula, ukuvelisa, ukupakisha, ukulebhelisha, ukungenisa, ukuthumela ngaphandle kunye nokusasazwa kwempahla yelaphu yendalo. Iimveliso zokugqibela zingabandakanya, kodwa azipheleli nje kwezi: iimveliso zefayibha, imisonto, amalaphu, impahla kunye namalaphu asekhaya, lo mgangatho ugxila kuphela kwiimfuno ezinyanzelekileyo.
Into eqinisekisiweyo: amalaphu aveliswe kwiifayibha zendalo eziphilayo
Ububanzi besatifikethi: Ulawulo lwemveliso ye-GOTs, ukhuseleko lokusingqongileyo, uxanduva loluntu iinkalo ezintathu
Iimfuno zemveliso: Iqulethe i-70% yefayibha yendalo yendalo, ukuxuba akuvumelekanga, iqulethe i-10% yefayibha eyenziweyo okanye ephinde yasetyenziswa (impahla yezemidlalo ingaba ne-25% yefayibha eyenziweyo okanye ephinde yasetyenziswa), akukho fayibha eguqulwe ngokwemfuza.
Izambatho zendalo zikwayenye yezona ziqinisekiso zibalulekileyo zeemfuno zezinto eziluhlaza zeempawu eziphambili, apho kufuneka sahlule umahluko phakathi kwe-GOTS kunye ne-OCS, eziziimfuno ezahlukeneyo kakhulu zezithako zendalo zemveliso.
3. Isiqinisekiso se-OCS
Umgangatho womxholo we-organic oqinisekisiweyo yi-OCS; Umgangatho woMxholo we-Organic (OCS) ungasetyenziswa kuzo zonke iimveliso ezingezizo zokutya ezinezithako ze-organic ezifikelela kwi-5 ukuya kwi-100 ekhulwini. Lo mgangatho ungasetyenziselwa ukuqinisekisa umxholo wezinto ze-organic kwimveliso yokugqibela. Ungasetyenziselwa ukulandelela izinto eziluhlaza ukusuka kumthombo ukuya kwimveliso yokugqibela kwaye inkqubo iqinisekiswa ngumbutho wesithathu othembekileyo. Kwinkqubo yovavanyo oluzimeleyo ngokupheleleyo lomxholo wemveliso ye-organic, imigangatho iya kuba selubala kwaye ihambelane. Lo mgangatho ungasetyenziswa njengesixhobo soshishino phakathi kweenkampani ukunceda iinkampani ziqinisekise ukuba iimveliso ezithengayo okanye ezihlawulelayo ziyahlangabezana neemfuno zazo.
Injongo yokuqinisekiswa: iimveliso ezingezizo zokutya eziveliswe ngezinto ezivunyiweyo zendalo.
Ububanzi besatifikethi: Ulawulo lwemveliso ye-OCS.
Iimfuno zemveliso: Ziqulethe ngaphezulu kwe-5% yezinto ezikrwada ezihlangabezana nemigangatho yendalo evunyiweyo.
Iimfuneko ze-OCS zezithako eziphilayo ziphantsi kakhulu kune-GOTS, ngoko ke umthengi oqhelekileyo wophawu uya kufuna ukuba umthengisi anike isatifikethi se-GOTS endaweni yesatifikethi se-OCS.
4. Isiqinisekiso seBCI
Umbutho woPhuhliso lweCotton oluLungileyo lwaseSwitzerland oQinisekisiweyo yi-BCI; I-Better Cotton Development Association (BCI), ebhaliswe ngo-2009 kwaye inekomkhulu eliseGeneva, eSwitzerland, ngumbutho wamazwe ngamazwe ongenzi nzuzo onama-ofisi amane amele eTshayina, eIndiya, ePakistan naseLondon. Okwangoku, inemibutho engamalungu angaphezu kwe-1,000 kwihlabathi liphela, ikakhulu kuquka iiyunithi zokutyala umqhaphu, amashishini eempahla zelaphu lomqhaphu kunye neemveliso zokuthengisa.
I-BCI isebenzisana namaqela amaninzi achaphazelekayo ukukhuthaza iiprojekthi zokukhulisa i-BetterCotton kwihlabathi liphela kunye nokwenza lula ukuhamba kwe-BetterCotton kuyo yonke inkqubo yokubonelela, ngokusekelwe kwimigaqo yokuvelisa umqhaphu eyenziwe yi-BCI. Injongo ephambili ye-BCI kukuguqula imveliso yomqhaphu kwihlabathi liphela ngophuhliso lweProjekthi yeCotton eNgcono, okwenza umqhaphu olungileyo ube yimpahla ephambili. Ngowama-2020, imveliso yomqhaphu olungileyo iya kufikelela kwi-30% yemveliso iyonke yomqhaphu kwihlabathi liphela.
Imigaqo emithandathu yemveliso ye-BCI:
1.Nciphisa iziphumo ezinobungozi kumanyathelo okukhusela izityalo.
2. Ukusetyenziswa kwamanzi ngokufanelekileyo kunye nokulondolozwa kwemithombo yamanzi.
3. Gxila kwimpilo yomhlaba.
4.Khusela iindawo zokuhlala zendalo.
5. Ukunyamekela nokukhusela umgangatho wefayibha.
6. Ukukhuthaza umsebenzi ofanelekileyo.
Okwangoku, iimpawu ezininzi zifuna ukuba umqhaphu wababoneleli bazo uvele kwi-BCI, kwaye zineqonga labo lokulandelela i-BCI ukuqinisekisa ukuba ababoneleli banokuthenga i-BCI yokwenyani, apho ixabiso le-BCI lifana nelomqhaphu oqhelekileyo, kodwa umthengisi uya kubandakanya iintlawulo ezifanayo xa efaka isicelo kwaye esebenzisa iqonga le-BCI kunye nobulungu. Ngokubanzi, ukusetyenziswa kwe-BCCU kulandelwa ngeqonga le-BCI (1BCCU=1kg lint yomqhaphu).
5. Isiqinisekiso seRDS
I-RDS eqinisekisiweyo yi-Humane kunye ne-Responsible down standard; i-RDS ResponsibleDownStandard (i-Responsibledown Standard). I-Humane kunye ne-Responsible Down Standard yinkqubo yesatifikethi eyenziwe yi-VF Corporation's TheNorthFace ngokubambisana ne-Textile Exchange kunye ne-Dutch ControlUnion Certifications, umbutho wesatifikethi somntu wesithathu. Le projekthi yaqaliswa ngokusesikweni ngoJanuwari 2014 kwaye isatifikethi sokuqala sakhutshwa ngoJuni waloo nyaka mnye. Ngexesha lokuphuhliswa kwenkqubo yesatifikethi, umniki wesatifikethi wasebenzisana nabathengisi abaphambili i-AlliedFeather& Down kunye ne-Downlite ukuhlalutya nokuqinisekisa ukuthotyelwa kwemithetho kuzo zonke izigaba ze-down supply chain.
Iintsiba zeehansi, amadada kunye nezinye iintaka kwishishini lokutya zezinye zezona zinto zisemgangathweni ophezulu nezisebenza kakuhle kakhulu. I-Humane Down Standard yenzelwe ukuvavanya nokulandelela umthombo wayo nayiphi na imveliso esekwe kwi-down, idala uthotho lokugcinwa ukusuka kwi-gosling ukuya kwimveliso yokugqibela. Isiqinisekiso se-RDS siquka ukuqinisekiswa kwabathengisi bezinto ezikrwada ze-down kunye neentsiba, kwaye siquka nokuqinisekiswa kweefektri zemveliso ye-down jacket.
6. Isiqinisekiso se-Oeko-TEX
I-OEKO-TEX®Standard 100 yaphuhliswa yi-International Environmental Textile Association (OEKO-TEX®Association) ngo-1992 ukuze kuvavanywe iimpawu zeemveliso zelaphu kunye neempahla ngokwempembelelo yazo kwimpilo yabantu. I-OEKO-TEX®Standard 100 ichaza iintlobo zezinto ezinobungozi ezaziwayo ezinokubakho kwiimveliso zelaphu kunye neempahla. Izinto zokuvavanya ziquka i-pH, i-formaldehyde, iintsimbi ezinzima, izibulali-zinambuzane/i-herbicides, i-chlorinated phenol, ii-phthalates, i-organotin, iidayi ze-azo, iidayi ze-carcinogenic/allergenic, i-OPP, i-PFOS, i-PFOA, i-chlorobenzene kunye ne-chlorotoluene, ii-polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons, ukukhawuleza kombala, i-volatile matter, ivumba, njl.njl., kwaye iimveliso zahlulwe zibe ziindidi ezine ngokwendlela ezisetyenziswa ngayo: Iklasi I yeentsana, Iklasi II yokunxibelelana ngqo nolusu, Iklasi III yokunxibelelana ngqo nolusu kunye neKlasi IV yokusetyenziswa kokuhombisa.
Okwangoku, i-Oeko-tex, njengenye yezona ziqinisekiso zisisiseko zokusingqongileyo kwiifektri zelaphu, ngokubanzi ifuna intsebenziswano nabanini beempawu, nto leyo eyona mfuneko incinci kwiifektri.
Ukuqukumbela
ISiyinghongumzi-mveliso weempahlalinkokeli kwishishini lemfashini kwaye lifumene iziqinisekiso ezininzi kunye nemigangatho yokunceda ishishini lakho liphumelele.
Ukuba ufuna iimpahla zakho zibe nobuhlobo nokusingqongileyo kwaye zibe nesitayile, jonga nje kwi-siyanghongIfektri yempahla. Sithatha uzinzo kunye noxanduva loluntu njengezona zinto ziphambili kwimveliso ukuze ukwazi ukwenza impahla yefashoni ngokuzithemba ngaphandle kokonakalisa okusingqongileyo.Qhagamshelana nathinamhlanje ukuze ufumane ulwazi oluthe kratya malunga nendlela esinokukunceda ngayo ufezekise iinjongo zakho.
Ixesha leposi: Matshi-28-2024
