Ileyisiyinto efunekayo. Ithishu ye-mesh, eyalukwa ngesandla okokuqala nge-crochet. AmaYurophu namaMerika asebenzisa kakhulu iimpahla zabasetyhini, ingakumbi kwiilokhwe zangokuhlwa kunye neelokhwe zomtshato. Ngenkulungwane ye-18, iinkundla zaseYurophu kunye namadoda ahloniphekileyo ayesetyenziswa kakhulu kwiicuffs, iziketi zekhola, kunye neekawusi.
Imvelaphi yeleyisi
Ulwakhiwo lweleyisi olufana neentyatyambo aluzange lufumaneke ngokuluka okanye ngokuluka, kodwa ngokujija intambo. EYurophu kwinkulungwane ye-16 neye-17, ukusetyenziswa kwentambo yeleyisi enomsonto kwaba ngumthombo wengeniso kubantu abasebenza ngezandla kunye nendlela yokuba abafazi abadumileyo bachithe ixesha labo. Ngelo xesha, imfuno yoluntu yeleyisi yayinkulu kakhulu, nto leyo eyayisenza abasebenzi beleyisi basebenze bediniwe kakhulu. Babesoloko besebenza kwigumbi elingaphantsi elinomoya, kwaye ukukhanya kwakunganamandla, ngoko babebona kuphela amavili ajikelezayo.
Ekubeni uJohn Heathcoat wayila ilayisi loom (eyayinelungelo elilodwa lomenzi ngo-1809), imveliso yelayisi yaseBritane yangena kwixesha lezoshishino, lo matshini unokuvelisa isiseko selayisi esincinci nesiqhelekileyo. Abenzi bezandla badinga kuphela ukuluka imizobo kwiwebhu, edla ngokwenziwa ngesilika. Kwiminyaka embalwa kamva, uJohn Leavers wayila umatshini owasebenzisa umgaqo we-French jacquard loom ukuvelisa iipateni zelayisi kunye ne-lace mesh, kwaye oko kwamisela nesiko lelayisi eNottingham. Umatshini weLeavers uyinkimbinkimbi kakhulu, wenziwe ngamacandelo angama-40000 kunye neentlobo ezingama-50000 zemigca, kufuneka usebenze kwiikona ezahlukeneyo.
Namhlanje, ezinye iinkampani zeleyisi ezikumgangatho ophezulu zisasebenzisa oomatshini beLeavers. UKarl Mayer uzise oomatshini bokuluka be-warp abanjengoJacquardtronic kunye neTextronic ukuvelisa ileyisi yeleyisi yeLeavers, kodwa engabizi kakhulu, icocekile kwaye ilula.
Intambo yelayisi efana ne-rayon, i-nylon, i-polyester kunye ne-spandex nazo ziyayitshintsha indlela intambo yelayisi esetyenziswa ngayo, kodwa umgangatho wentambo esetyenziselwa ukuvelisa ilayisi kufuneka ube mhle kakhulu, kwaye inani layo liphezulu kunentambo esetyenziselwa ukuluka okanye ukuluka.
Izithako kunye nokuhlelwa kweleyisi
Ilayisi isebenzisa i-nylon, i-polyester, umqhaphu kunye ne-rayon njengezinto eziphambili zokwenza izinto. Ukuba zongezwa nge-spandex okanye isilika elastiki, ukuthamba kungafumaneka.
I-nylon (okanye i-polyester) + i-spandex: ilayisi eqhelekileyo elastiki.
I-nylon + i-polyester + (spandex): ingenziwa ibe yilayisi enemibala emibini, eyenziwe ngemibala eyahlukeneyo ye-brocade kunye ne-polyester dyeing.
I-polyester epheleleyo (okanye i-nylon epheleleyo): inokwahlulwa ibe yi-filament enye kunye ne-filament, esetyenziswa kakhulu kwilokhwe yomtshato; i-filament ingalinganisa impembelelo yekotoni.
I-nylon (i-polyester) + ikotoni: ingenziwa ibe nombala owahlukileyo.
Ngokubanzi, ilayisi ethengiswayo yahlulwe ngokwemichiza yefayibha, ilayisi yelaphu lekotoni, ilayisi yemisonto yekotoni, ilayisi yokuthunga kunye nelayisi enyibilikayo emanzini kwezi ndidi zintlanu. Ilayisi nganye ineempawu zayo, kwaye ineenzuzo kunye neengxaki ezahlukeneyo.
Amandla kunye nobuthathaka beLace
1, ilayisi yefayibha yamakhemikhali lolona hlobo luqhelekileyo lwamalaphu eleyisi, izinto ezisekelwe kwi-nylon, i-spandex. Ubume bayo ngokubanzi buncinci, kwaye buqinile ngakumbi, ukuba ukudibana ngqo nolusu kunokuvakala ngathi kukuhlaba kancinci. Kodwa iingenelo zelayisi yefayibha yamakhemikhali ziindleko eziphantsi, iipateni ezininzi, imibala emininzi, kwaye azilula ukuphula. Ingxaki yelayisi yefayibha yamakhemikhali kukuba ayilunganga, abantu be-zha, ayilulo ubushushu obuphezulu, ngokusisiseko ayinakuthamba, ayinakunxitywa njengempahla yobuqu. Kwaye ngokubanzi, ngenxa yexabiso lelayisi yefayibha yamakhemikhali, isetyenziswa rhoqo kwiimpahla ezingabizi, ngoko ke iya kunika abantu uhlobo "lokuziva bengabizi".
2. Ilayisi yekotoni ngokuqhelekileyo luhlobo lwelayisi eyenziwe ngentambo yekotoni kwilaphu lekotoni, ize inqumle indawo engenanto yelaphu lekotoni. Ilayisi yekotoni nayo ixhaphakile, inokubonwa kwiimpahla ezininzi, ukuthamba kwayo kuyafana nelaphu lekotoni. Iingenelo zelayisi yekotoni zixabiso eliphantsi, akukho lula ukuliqhekeza, linokucinezelwa kubushushu obuphezulu, livakala kamnandi. Kodwa ingxaki yelayisi yekotoni kulula ukuyishwabanisa, ayinamilo ingako, imhlophe kuphela. Ngokubanzi, ilayisi yekotoni yindlela elungileyo ukuba awufuni ukusebenzisa ilayisi yefayibha engabizi, kukho ingqiqo enamandla yexabiso.
3, intambo yomqhaphu, njengoko igama lisitsho, kukusetyenziswa kwentambo yomqhaphu elukiweyo ibe yilayisi. Intambo yomqhaphu kuba lonke ukusetyenziswa kwentambo yomqhaphu olukiweyo, ngoko ke ubukhulu ngokubanzi buya kuba bukhulu ngakumbi, ukuziva kuya kuba nzima ngakumbi. Iingenelo kunye nokungalungi kwentambo yomqhaphu yelayisi kufana noko kwentambo yomqhaphu yelaphu. Intambo yomqhaphu inobume obungaphezulu kancinci kunentambo yomqhaphu, ixabiso libiza kancinci, kwaye akulula ukuyishwabanisa, kodwa ngenxa yokuba ityebile, akulula ukuyisonga nokuyigoba. Ngokubanzi, intambo yomqhaphu yelayisi idla ngokusetyenziswa kwimpahla kwintambo encinci, kwaye ayibonakali kangako.
4, ilayisi yokuthunga ikwi-layer yelinethi yemisonto enomqhaphu, i-polyester kunye neminye imisonto ukuze iluke imilo yelayisi, ize inqumle umphezulu wayo kuba i-lining ine-mesh, ngoko ke imvakalelo iya kutshintsha ngokobunzima be-mesh, kodwa ngokubanzi, ilayisi yokuthunga ethambileyo eyenziwe nge-mesh ethambileyo iya kuba ngcono. Xa kuthelekiswa neentlobo ezi-3 ezingentla, inzuzo yelayisi yokuthunga ivakala ithambile kwaye igudile, akulula ukuyishwabanisa, inokusongwa, ukuthamba kwayo kungcono. Ingxaki yelayisi yokuthunga ayikoku-ayina ngobushushu obuphezulu, ukumodela kuncinci, kulula ukuphuka. Ngokubanzi, iimpahla ezineemfuno eziphezulu zokuthamba kunye nezinto ziya kusebenzisa ilayisi ethungiweyo, njenge-lining yesiketi kunye nempahla yangaphantsi.
5, ilayisi enyibilikayo emanzini yenziwe ngentambo yepolyester okanye ipateni yelayisi ye-viscose elukiweyo kwiphepha lelayisi, emva kokugqiba ukusebenzisa amanzi ashushu aphezulu ukunyibilikisa iphepha lelayisi, kushiyeke kuphela umzimba welayisi, nangona igama lelayisi enyibilikayo emanzini. Ngenxa yokuba ilayisi enyibilikayo emanzini ineenaliti ezininzi kunezi zingasentla, ilayisi enyibilikayo emanzini nayo ibiza kakhulu. Inzuzo yelayisi enyibilikayo emanzini kukuba ivakala intle kakhulu, ithambile kwaye igudile, ithambile kancinci, ikhazimla, inombono oneemilinganiselo ezintathu, kunye neepateni ezininzi zokubonisa. Ingxaki yelayisi enyibilikayo emanzini kukuba ixabiso liphezulu, liqinile, alilula ukuligoqa, kwaye alinakucinezelwa kubushushu obuphezulu. Ngokubanzi, iimpahla ezenziwe kakuhle kunye nezinto ezisetyenzisiweyo zisebenzisa ilayisi enyibilikayo emanzini, kwaye ilayisi enyibilikayo emanzini eyenziwe kakuhle inokufikelela kwixabiso lee-yuan ezininzi okanye amakhulu eemitha.
Ixesha lokuthumela: Epreli-02-2024
