Isinxibo esisetyenziswa ngokuqhelekileyoilaphu lokulukasisiluki esikwimo yeshuttle, apho umsonto wenziwe ngokugxadazela kobude kunye nesibanzi. Umbutho wayo ngokubanzi uneendidi ezintathu zeflethi, i-twill kunye ne-satin, kunye nombutho wabo oguqukayo (kumaxesha anamhlanje, ngenxa yokusetyenziswa kwe-shuttle-free loom, ukuthungwa kwempahla enjalo ayisebenzisi uhlobo lwe-shuttle, kodwa ilaphu lisasebenza. ukuluka i-shuttle). Ukusuka kwicandelo lelaphu lomqhaphu, ilaphu lesilika, ilaphu loboya, ilaphu lelinen, ilaphu lemichiza yefayibha kunye namalaphu abo adityanisiweyo nalukiweyo, ukusetyenziswa kwamalaphu alukiweyo kwimpahla nokuba kuluhlu okanye kukhokele ubuninzi bemveliso. Ngenxa yomahluko kwisitayile, itekhnoloji, isitayile kunye nezinye izinto, kukho umahluko omkhulu kwinkqubo yokusetyenzwa kunye neendlela zenkqubo. Oku kulandelayo lulwazi olusisiseko lokusetyenzwa kwempahla elukiweyo ngokubanzi.
(1) Inkqubo yokuvelisa iimpahla ezilukiweyo
Izinto ezingaphezulu kwi-teknoloji yokuhlola i-factory, ukusika kunye nokuthunga iqhosha le-keyhole, i-ironing impahla yokuhlola ukugcinwa kokupakisha okanye ukuthunyelwa.
Emva kokuba ilaphu lingene kumzi-mveliso, ukubalwa kobuninzi kunye nenkangeleko kunye nomgangatho wangaphakathi kufuneka uhlolwe. Kuphela xa zihlangabezana neemfuno zemveliso zinokufakwa ekusebenzeni. Ngaphambi kokuveliswa kobuninzi, ukulungiswa kobugcisa kufuneka kuqhutywe kuqala, kubandakanywa ukuqulunqwa kwephepha lenkqubo, isitya sesampuli kunye nokuveliswa kwesambatho sesampuli. Isambatho sesampuli sinokungena kwinkqubo elandelayo yokuvelisa kuphela emva kokuqinisekiswa ngumthengi. Amalaphu asikwa kwaye athungelwe kwiimveliso ezigqityiweyo. Emva kokuba amanye amalaphu e-shuttle enziwe kwiimveliso ezigqityiweyo, ngokweemfuno zenkqubo ekhethekileyo, kufuneka zihlelwe kwaye zicutshungulwe, njengokuhlanjwa kwempahla, ukuhlamba isanti yengubo, ukuphonononga ukusebenza kwesiphumo, njl., kwaye ekugqibeleni, ngenkqubo encedisayo kunye inkqubo yokugqiba, kwaye emva koko ipakishwe kwaye igcinwe emva kokuphumelela ukuhlolwa.
(2) Injongo kunye neemfuno zokuhlolwa kwelaphu
Umgangatho weempahla ezilungileyo ziyinxalenye ebalulekileyo yokulawula umgangatho weemveliso ezigqityiweyo. Ukuhlolwa kunye nokuzimisela kwendwangu engenayo kunokuphucula ngokufanelekileyo izinga lomgangatho wempahla.
Ukuhlolwa kwelaphu kubandakanya zombini umgangatho wembonakalo kunye nomgangatho wangaphakathi. Inkangeleko ephambili yelaphu kukuba kukho umonakalo, amabala, iziphene zokuluka, ukuhluka kombala njalo njalo. Ilaphu lokuhlamba isanti kufuneka kwakhona lithathele ingqalelo ukuba kukho indlela yesanti, i-dead fold seal, i-crack kunye nezinye iziphene zokuhlambela isanti. Iziphene ezichaphazela ukubonakala kufuneka ziphawulwe ngamanqaku ekuhlolweni kwaye zigwenywe xa usika.
Umgangatho wangaphakathi welaphu ikakhulu ubandakanya ukuncipha, ukukhawuleza kombala kunye nobunzima (m, i-ounce) umxholo wesithathu. Ngexesha lokuhlolwa kwesampulu, iisampuli zabameli beentlobo ezahlukeneyo kunye nemibala eyahlukeneyo kufuneka zisikwe ukuvavanya ukuqinisekisa ukuchaneka kwedatha.
Ngelo xesha, izinto ezincedisayo ezingena kumzi-mveliso kufuneka zihlolwe kwakhona, ezifana nesantya sokunciphisa ibhande le-elastic, ukunyathela ngokukhawuleza kwe-adhesive lining, i-degree of zipper smoothness, njl. Izinto ezincedisayo ezingenakukwazi ukuhlangabezana neemfuno ayiyi kusetyenziswa.
(3) Umsebenzi ophambili wokulungiselela ubugcisa
Phambi kokuveliswa kobuninzi, abasebenzi bobugcisa kufuneka baqale benze umsebenzi olungileyo wokulungiselela ubugcisa phambi kokuveliswa ngobuninzi. Ukulungiswa kobugcisa kubandakanya imixholo emithathu: ishidi lenkqubo, ukwenza isampuli yephepha kunye nokwenza isampuli yengubo. Ukulungiswa kobugcisa yindlela ebalulekileyo yokuqinisekisa imveliso yobuninzi egudileyo kunye nemveliso yokugqibela ukuhlangabezana neemfuno zabathengi.
Iphepha lenkqubo lixwebhu elisisikhokelo kulungiso lwempahla. Ibeka phambili iimfuno ezicacileyo kwiinkcazo, ukuthunga, uku-ayina, ukugqiba kunye nokupakisha, njl., kwaye iphinda icacise iinkcukacha ezifana nokuhlanganiswa kwezixhobo zengubo kunye nobuninzi beengoma zokuthunga, jonga iThebhile 1-1. Zonke iinkqubo kwi-processing yengubo kufuneka ziqhutywe ngokungqongqo ngokweemfuno zephepha lenkqubo.
Ukuveliswa kwesampuli kufuna ubukhulu obuchanekileyo kunye neenkcukacha ezipheleleyo. Imigca yecontour yamacandelo afanelekileyo ihambelana ngokuchanekileyo. Inombolo yempahla, inxalenye, inkcazo, indlela yezitshixo zesilika kunye neemfuno zomgangatho kufuneka ziphawulwe kwisampulu, kunye nesampulu ehlanganisiweyo yesitywina kufuneka igximfizwe kwindawo efanelekileyo yokudibanisa.
Emva kokugqitywa kwephepha lenkqubo kunye noqulunqo lwesampulu, ukuveliswa kweempahla ezincinci zesampulu zingaqhutywa, kwaye ukungafani kunokulungiswa ngexesha ngokweemfuno zabathengi kunye nenkqubo, kunye nobunzima benkqubo bunokulungiswa, ngoko ke, ukuba umsebenzi wokuhamba ngobuninzi unokuqhutywa kakuhle. Isampuli ibe yenye yeziseko zokuhlola ezibalulekileyo emva komthengi.
(4) Iimfuno zenkqubo yokusika
Ngaphambi kokusika, kufuneka sidwebe umzobo wokukhupha ngokwesampuli. "Kuphelele, kusengqiqweni kwaye kugcinwe" ngumgaqo osisiseko wokukhupha. Iimfuno eziphambili zenkqubo kwinkqubo yokusika zezi zilandelayo:
(1) Sula ubuninzi kwindawo yokutsala, kwaye ubeke ingqalelo ukuphepha iziphene.
(2) Kwiibhetshi ezahlukeneyo zamalaphu adayiweyo okanye esanti ahlanjwe ngesanti kufuneka asikwe ngokweebhetshi ukuthintela umahluko wemibala kwisinxibo esinye. Kuba ubukho umahluko umbala ilaphu ukuya umahluko umbala ukukhutshwa.
(3) Xa ukhupha izinto, qaphela ukuba imicu yesilika yelaphu kunye nesalathiso semisonto yengubo iyahlangabezana neemfuno zenkqubo. Kwimpahla ye-velvet (njenge-velvet, i-velvet, i-corduroy, njl.), izixhobo akufanele zikhutshwe ngasemva, ngaphandle koko ubunzulu bombala wengubo buya kuchaphazeleka.
(4) Kwilaphu le-plaid, kufuneka sinikele ingqalelo ukulungelelaniswa kunye nokubeka imivalo kwinqanaba ngalinye, ukwenzela ukuba kuqinisekiswe ukuhambelana kunye nokulinganisa kweemivalo kwiingubo.
(5) Ukusika kufuna ukusika ngokuchanekileyo, kunye nemigca ethe tye kunye negudileyo. I-pavement ayifanele ibe nzima kakhulu, kwaye iileyile eziphezulu kunye nezantsi zengubo azigqithisi.
(6) Sika imela ngokophawu lwesampulu.
(7) Ingqalelo kufuneka ithathelwe ingqalelo ukuba ingachaphazeli inkangeleko yengubo xa kusetyenziswa uphawu lwekhowuni yomngxuma. Emva kokusika, ubungakanani kunye nokuhlolwa kwethebhulethi kufuneka kubalwe, kwaye kuhlanganiswe ngokweenkcukacha zempahla, kunye nenombolo yokuqinisekiswa kwetikiti, iinxalenye kunye neenkcukacha eziqhotyoshelweyo.
(5) Ukuthunga kunye nokuthunga yinkqubo ephambili yeukulungiswa kwempahla. Ukuthunga kwempahla kunokwahlulwa ibe ngumatshini wokuthunga kunye nokuthunga ngesandla ngokwesitayile kunye nesitayile sobugcisa. Kwinkqubo yokuthunga kunye nokucubungula ukuphunyezwa kokuhamba komsebenzi.
Ukusetyenziswa kwe-adhesive lining kwi-processing yempahla ixhaphake kakhulu, indima yayo kukwenza lula inkqubo yokuthunga, ukwenza i-uniform yekhwalithi yempahla, ukuthintela ukuguqulwa kunye nemibimbi, kwaye udlale indima ethile kwimodeli yempahla. Iindidi zayo zamalaphu angalukwanga, amalaphu alukiweyo, i-knitwear njengelaphu lesiseko, ukusetyenziswa kwelaphu lokuncamathelisa kufuneka kukhethwe ngokwelaphu lempahla kunye namalungu, kunye nokuqonda ngokuchanekileyo ixesha, ubushushu kunye noxinzelelo, ukuze ufumane iziphumo ezingcono. .
Ekucutshungulweni kweengubo ezilukiweyo, izibonda zixhunywe ngokomthetho othile ukwenza intambo eqinile kwaye enhle.
Umkhondo ungashwankathelwa kwezi ntlobo zine zilandelayo:
1. Umkhondo wentambo yetyathanga Umkhondo wentambo wenziwa ngomthungo omnye okanye ezimbini. Umthungo omnye. Inzuzo yayo kukuba ubungakanani bemigca esetyenziswe kubude beyunithi buncinci, kodwa i-disadvantage kukuba ukukhutshwa kwe-edge lock kuya kwenzeka xa umgca wekhonkco uphukile. Intambo ye-suture ephindwe kabini ibizwa ngokuba yi-double chain seam, eyenziwe ngenaliti kunye nentambo yomgca we-hook, u-elasticity kunye namandla ayo angcono kunomsonto wokutshixa, kwaye akukho lula ukusabalalisa ngexesha elifanayo. Umkhondo womgca omnye wekhonkco lomgca omnye udla ngokusetyenziswa kumqukumbelo webhatyi, umthungo webhulukhwe, umthungo webhatyi yebhatyi, njalo njalo. ibhanti elastiki kunye nezinye iindawo ezinokwelula ngakumbi kunye namandla anamandla.
2. Umkhondo womgca wokutshixa, owaziwa ngokuba yi-shuttle suture trace, udityaniswe ngeentsimbi ezimbini kumthungo. Iziphelo ezimbini ze-suture zinemilo efanayo, kwaye ukunweba kwayo kunye nokuqina kwayo kubi, kodwa i-suture ephezulu nesezantsi isondele. I-linear lock suture trace yeyona nto ixhaphakileyo ye-suture suture trace, ehlala isetyenziselwa ukuthunga kwezinto ezimbini ze-suture. Njengomphetho wokuthunga, ukonga ukuthunga, ibhegi njalo njalo.
3. Umkhondo we-suture suture ngumsonto osetwe kwincam yomthungo ngothotho lweesutures. Ngokwenani leengoma zesuture (umthungo wesuture enye, idouble suture seam… Imithungo emithandathu). Uphawu lwalo kukwenza umda wezinto zokuthunga zihlanganiswe, zidlale indima yokuthintela umda wengubo. Xa i-seam isoluliwe, kunokubakho iqondo elithile lokudluliselwa okufanayo phakathi komgca ongaphezulu kunye nomgca ophantsi, ngoko ke i-elasticity ye-seam ingcono, ngoko isetyenziswe ngokubanzi kumda wengubo. Imithungo yocingo oluthathu kunye neentambo ezine zezona mpahla zisetyenziswayo zilukiweyo. I-five-line kunye ne-mix-line seams, eyaziwa nangokuthi "iingoma ezidibeneyo", zenziwe nge-double-line seam kunye neentambo ezintathu okanye ezine. Uphawu lwayo olukhulu lunamandla amakhulu, anokuthi adityaniswe kwaye ahlanganiswe ngexesha elifanayo, ukwenzela ukuba kuphuculwe ubuninzi beendlela zokuthunga kunye nokusebenza kakuhle kwemveliso yokuthunga.
4. Umkhondo we-suture wenziwa ngeenaliti ezingaphezu kwezibini kunye nentambo ye-hook egobileyo komnye nomnye, kwaye ngamanye amaxesha intambo enye okanye emibini yokuhlobisa yongezwa ngaphambili. Iimpawu ze-suture trace zinamandla, zilungile, zihamba kakuhle, zihamba kakuhle, kwezinye iimeko (ezifana nokuthunga i-seam) nazo zinokudlala indima yokuthintela umda welaphu.
Ifom yokuthunga okusisiseko iboniswe kuMfanekiso 1-13. Ukongeza kwindlela yokuthunga esisiseko, kukwakho neendlela zokucubungula ezinje ngokusonga kunye nokuhombisa amalaphu ngokweemfuno zesitayile kunye netekhnoloji. Ukhetho lwenaliti, intambo kunye nobuninzi bokulandelela inaliti ekuthungeni kwengubo ephothiweyo kufuneka kuthathelwe ingqalelo iimfuno zengubo yengubo kunye nenkqubo.
Iinaliti zinokuhlelwa "ngohlobo kunye nenombolo". Ngokwemilo, izibonda zingahlulwa zibe yi-S, J, B, U, Y uhlobo, oluhambelana neendwangu ezahlukeneyo, ngokulandelelana usebenzisa uhlobo lwenaliti efanelekileyo.
Ubunzima bee-stitches ezisetyenziswe e-China zihlukaniswa ngenani, kwaye iqondo lobunzima liba likhulu kwaye ligqithise ngokunyuka kwenani. Izititshi ezisetyenziselwa ukusetyenzwa kwempahla ngokubanzi ziqala ukusuka kwi-7 ukuya kwi-18, kwaye amalaphu eempahla ezahlukeneyo asebenzisa izititshi ezahlukeneyo zobunzima obahlukeneyo.
Ngokomgaqo, ukukhethwa kwee-stitches kufuneka kube yinto efanayo kunye nombala njengengubo yengubo (ingakumbi kwi-design design). I-Sutures ngokubanzi ibandakanya intambo yesilika, intambo yomqhaphu, intambo ye-cotton / i-polyester, intambo ye-polyester, njl. Xa sikhetha i-stitches, kufuneka sinikele ingqalelo kumgangatho wokuthunga, njengokukhawuleza kombala, ukushwabana, amandla okukhawuleza njalo njalo. I-suture eqhelekileyo iya kusetyenziswa kuwo onke amalaphu.
Ukuxinana komkhondo wenaliti kukuxinana konyawo lwenaliti, egwetywa ngenani le-sutures ngaphakathi kwe-3cm kumphezulu welaphu, kwaye inokubonakaliswa ngenani leentsinjana kwilaphu le-3cm. Uxinaniso lwenaliti esemgangathweni yokulandelela impahla ephothiweyo.
Ukuthungwa kwempahla ngokubanzi kufuna ukucoceka kunye nokuhle, akukwazi ukubonakala njenge-asymmetry, igoso, ukuvuza, i-seam engafanelekanga kunye nezinye izinto. Ekuthungeni, kufuneka sinikele ingqalelo kwipatheni ye-splicing, kunye ne-symmetry. I-suture iya kuba yinto efanayo kwaye ithe tye, igudileyo kwaye igudileyo; i-tangent yengubo yokugqoka i-flat ngaphandle kwemibimbi kunye nokusonga okuncinci; i-suture ikwimeko efanelekileyo, ngaphandle komgca ophukileyo, umgca ojikelezayo, kunye neendawo ezibalulekileyo ezifana nencam yekhola aziyi kuba neengcingo.
(6) umngxuma wesitshixo wesikhonkwane
Umngxuma wokutshixa kunye nentsimbi yezikhonkwane kwiimpahla zihlala zenziwe ngomatshini. Umngxuma wamehlo wahlulwe waba ngumngxuma osicaba kunye nomngxuma wamehlo ngokwemilo yawo, eyaziwa ngokuba ngumngxuma wokulala kunye nomngxuma wamehlo wehobe.
Amehlo athe tye asetyenziswa kakhulu kwiihempe, iziketi, ibhulukhwe kunye nezinye iimveliso ezibhityileyo zempahla.
Amehlo ePhoenix asetyenziswa kakhulu kwiibhatyi, iisuti kunye namanye amalaphu ashinyeneyo kudidi lwedyasi.
Umngxuma wokutshixa kufuneka ubeke ingqalelo kula manqaku alandelayo:
(1) Ingaba indawo ye-cingate ichanekile.
(2) Ingaba ubungakanani beliso leqhosha lihambelana nobukhulu kunye nobukhulu beqhosha.
(3) Ingaba umngxuma weqhosha usikwe kakuhle.
(4) ube ne-stretch (elastic) okanye impahla encinci kakhulu yempahla, ukuqwalasela ukusetyenziswa komngxuma wokutshixa kwinqanaba elingaphakathi lokuqiniswa kwelaphu. Ukuthunga kweqhosha kufuneka kuhambelane nendawo ye-buttingpoint, ngaphandle koko iqhosha aliyi kubangela ukuphazamiseka kunye ne-skew yendawo yeqhosha. Ingqalelo kufuneka ihlawulwe kwakhona ukuba isixa kunye namandla omgca wesigxina sanele ngokwaneleyo ukukhusela iqhosha ukuba lingawa, nokuba inani le-buckle kwimpahla yengubo eshinyeneyo yanele.
(Abasixhenxe) abantu abashushu bahlala besebenzisa "amanqaku amathathu okuthunga amanqaku asixhenxe ashushu" uhlengahlengiso olunamandla olushushu yinkqubo ebalulekileyo ekulungisweni kwempahla.
Mithathu imisebenzi ephambili yoku-ayina:
(1) Susa imibimbi yeempahla ngokutshiza kunye noku-ayina, kwaye uthathe iintanda zibe caba.
(2) Emva konyango olushushu lokubumba, yenza imbonakalo yempahla ibonakale isicaba, i-pleated, imigca eqondileyo.
(3) Sebenzisa izakhono zokuayina "zokubuyisela" kunye "notsalo" ukuze utshintshe ngokufanelekileyo ukucutha kwefiber kunye noxinaniso kunye nesalathiso sombutho welaphu lelaphu, umise imilo emacala-ntathu yempahla, ukulungelelanisa neemfuno zomzimba womntu. imilo kunye nomsebenzi karhulumente, ukuze iimpahla zifezekise injongo yenkangeleko entle kunye nokunxiba kakuhle.
Izinto ezine ezisisiseko ezichaphazela i-ayina ilaphu zezi: ubushushu, ukufuma, uxinzelelo kunye nexesha. Ubushushu be-ironing yinto ephambili echaphazela umphumo we-ironing. Ukubamba ubushushu be-ayina bamalaphu ahlukeneyo yeyona ngxaki iphambili yokunxiba. Ubushushu be-ayina buphantsi kakhulu ukuba bufikelele kwisiphumo se-ayina; iqondo lobushushu le-ayina liya kubangela umonakalo.
Ubushushu be-ayina bazo zonke iintlobo zefiber, nangexesha lokunxibelelana, isantya esishukumayo, uxinzelelo lwe-ayina, nokuba indawo yokulala, ukutyeba kwebhedi kunye nokufuma kunezinto ezahlukeneyo.
Ezi ziganeko zilandelayo kufuneka ziphetshwe kwi-ayina:
(1) I-Aurora kunye nokutshisa phezu kwengubo.
(2) Umphezulu wempahla ushiye amaqhuqhuva amancinci kunye nemibimbi kunye nezinye iziphene ezishushu.
(3) Kukho ukuvuza kunye neendawo ezishushu.
(8) Ukuhlolwa kwempahla
Ukuhlolwa kwempahla kufuneka kuqhutywe kuyo yonke inkqubo yokucubungula ukusika, ukuthunga, i-keyhole buckle, ukugqiba kunye noku-ayina. Ngaphambi kokupakishwa kunye nokugcinwa, iimveliso ezigqityiweyo kufuneka zihlolwe ngokupheleleyo ukuqinisekisa umgangatho weemveliso.
Imixholo ephambili yokuhlolwa kwemveliso egqityiweyo ibandakanya:
(1) Ingaba isitayile siyafana nesampulu yokuqinisekisa.
(2) Ingaba ubungakanani kunye neenkcukacha ziyahlangabezana neemfuno zephepha lenkqubo kunye nempahla yesampuli.
(3) Ingaba umthungo uchanekile kusini na, kwanokuba ukuthunga kucocekile na neempahla ezisicaba.
(4) impahla yelaphu lomcu jonga ukuba isibini sichanekile.
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(6) Ingaba kukho ingxaki yokwahlukana kombala kwisinxibo esinye.
(7) Ingaba uku-ayina kulungile.
(8) Ingaba i-bonding lining iqinile, kwaye ingaba kukho i-glue infiltration phenomenon.
(9) Ingaba intloko yocingo ilungisiwe.
(10) Ingaba izixhobo zempahla zigqityiwe.
(11) Ingaba uphawu lwesayizi, uphawu lokuhlamba kunye nophawu lwentengiso kwimpahla iyahambelana nomxholo wempahla, kunye nokuba indawo ichanekile.
(12) Enoba imilo iyonke yempahla ilungile.
(13) Ingaba ukupakishwa kuyahlangabezana neemfuno.
(9) Ukupakishwa kunye nokugcinwa
Ukupakishwa kwempahla kunokwahlulwa zibe ziindidi ezimbini zokuxhoma kunye nokupakisha, eziye zahlulwe ngokubanzi zibe yipakethe yangaphakathi kunye nokupakishwa kwangaphandle.
Ukupakishwa kwangaphakathi kubhekisa kwisiqwenga esinye okanye ngaphezulu kwempahla kwingxowa yerabha. Inombolo yentlawulo kunye nobukhulu beengubo kufuneka zihambelane nezo ziphawulwe kwisikhwama se-rubber, kwaye ukupakishwa kufuneka kube kuhle kwaye kuhle. Ezinye izimbo ezikhethekileyo zempahla kufuneka zipakishwe ngonyango olukhethekileyo, njengempahla ejijekileyo ukuze ipakishwe ngendlela ephothiweyo, ukuze igcine isimbo sayo.
Iphakheji yangaphandle idla ngokupakishwa kwiibhokisi, ngokweemfuno zabathengi okanye imiyalelo yephepha lenkqubo. Ifom yokupakisha ngokubanzi ikhowudi edibeneyo yombala odibeneyo, ikhowudi yombala omnye ozimeleyo, ikhowudi edibeneyo yombala omnye, ikhowudi yombala odibeneyo ozimeleyo iintlobo ezine. Xa sipakisha, kufuneka sinikele ingqalelo kubuninzi obupheleleyo kunye nombala ochanekileyo kunye nobukhulu be-collocation. Gcoba uphawu lwebhokisi kwibhokisi yangaphandle, ebonisa umthengi, i-port yokuthutha, inombolo yebhokisi, ubuninzi, imvelaphi, njl., kwaye umxholo uhambelana nempahla yangempela.
Ixesha lokuposa: May-25-2024
