Ingubo esetyenziswa rhoqoilaphu lokulukayi-look ekwimo ye-shuttle, apho intambo yenziwa khona nge-staggered ye-longitude kunye ne-latitude. Ulungelelwaniso lwayo ngokubanzi luneentlobo ezintathu ze-flat, twill kunye ne-satin, kunye nolungelelwaniso lwazo olutshintshayo (kule mihla, ngenxa yokusetyenziswa kwe-shuttle-free loom, ukuluka kwala malaphu akusebenzisi uhlobo lwe-shuttle, kodwa ilaphu lisasetyenziswa njenge-shuttle weaving). Ukusuka kwinxalenye yelaphu lekotoni, ilaphu lesilika, ilaphu loboya, ilaphu lelinen, ilaphu le-chemical fiber kunye namalaphu abo axutyiweyo nalukiweyo, ukusetyenziswa kwamalaphu alukiweyo kwimpahla nokuba kukwiindidi ezahlukeneyo okanye kukwi-lead yobungakanani bemveliso. Ngenxa yokwahluka kwisitayile, ubuchwepheshe, isitayile kunye nezinye izinto, kukho umahluko omkhulu kwinkqubo yokucubungula kunye neendlela zenkqubo. Oku kulandelayo lulwazi olusisiseko lokucubungula isambatho esilukiweyo ngokubanzi.
(1) Inkqubo yokuvelisa impahla elukiweyo
Izinto ezisetyenziswayo zifakwe kwitekhnoloji yokuhlola ifektri, ukusika nokuthunga iqhosha lesitshixo, uku-ayina ukugcinwa okanye ukuthunyelwa kwempahla.
Emva kokuba ilaphu lingene kumzi-mveliso, kufuneka kujongwe inani kunye nembonakalo kunye nomgangatho wangaphakathi. Kuphela xa zihlangabezana neemfuno zemveliso apho zinokusetyenziswa khona. Ngaphambi kokuveliswa ngobuninzi, kufuneka kuqalwe ngokulungiswa kobugcisa, kubandakanya ukwenziwa kwephepha lenkqubo, ipleyiti yesampuli kunye nokuveliswa kwempahla yesampuli. Impahla yesampuli ingangena kwinkqubo elandelayo yemveliso kuphela emva kokuba iqinisekiswe ngumthengi. Amalaphu ayasikwa aze athungwe abe ziimveliso ezigqityiweyo. Emva kokuba amanye amalaphu e-shuttle enziwe abe ziimveliso ezigqityiweyo, ngokweemfuno zenkqubo ekhethekileyo, kufuneka ahlulwe kwaye acutshungulwe, njengokuhlamba impahla, ukuhlamba isanti yempahla, ukucubungula isiphumo sokujika, njl.njl., kwaye ekugqibeleni, ngenkqubo yokuncedisa kunye nenkqubo yokugqiba, emva koko apakishwe kwaye agcinwe emva kokudlula uvavanyo.
(2) Injongo kunye neemfuno zokuhlolwa kwelaphu
Umgangatho welaphu elihle yinxalenye ebalulekileyo yokulawula umgangatho weemveliso ezigqityiweyo. Ukuhlolwa kunye nokuchonga ilaphu elingenayo kunokuphucula umgangatho weempahla ngempumelelo.
Ukuhlolwa kwelaphu kuquka umgangatho wenkangeleko kunye nomgangatho wangaphakathi. Eyona nkangeleko iphambili yelaphu kukuba kukho umonakalo, amabala, iziphene zokuluka, umahluko wemibala njalo njalo. Ilaphu lokuhlanjwa ngesanti kufuneka liqwalasele nokuba kukho indlela yesanti, itywina eligobileyo, imifantu kunye nezinye iziphene zokuhlanjwa ngesanti. Iziphene ezichaphazela inkangeleko kufuneka ziphawulwe ngeempawu ekuhlolweni kwaye zithintelwe xa kusikwa.
Umgangatho wangaphakathi welaphu ubandakanya ikakhulu ukushwabana, ukuqina kombala kunye nobunzima (m, ounce) bomxholo wesithathu. Ngexesha lokuhlolwa kwesampulu, iisampulu ezimele iintlobo ezahlukeneyo kunye nemibala eyahlukeneyo kufuneka zisikwe ukuze kuvavanywe ukuqinisekisa ukuchaneka kwedatha.
Kwangaxeshanye, izinto ezincedisayo ezingena kumzi-mveliso nazo kufuneka zihlolwe, ezifana nesantya sokuncipha kwebhanti ye-elastic, ukuqina kokunamathela kwe-adhesive lining, ubungakanani bokuguda kwe-zipper, njl. Izinto ezincedisayo ezingahlangabezani neemfuno aziyi kusetyenziswa.
(3) Umsebenzi ophambili wokulungiselela ubugcisa
Ngaphambi kokuveliswa kwezinto ezininzi, abasebenzi bezobugcisa kufuneka baqale benze umsebenzi olungileyo wokulungiselela ubugcisa ngaphambi kokuveliswa kwezinto ezininzi. Ukulungiswa kobugcisa kuquka izinto ezintathu: iphepha lenkqubo, ukwenza iisampulu zephepha kunye nokwenza iisampulu zeempahla. Ukulungiswa kobugcisa yindlela ebalulekileyo yokuqinisekisa ukuveliswa kwezinto ezininzi kakuhle kunye nemveliso yokugqibela ukuhlangabezana neemfuno zabathengi.
Iphepha lenkqubo lixwebhu elikhokelayo ekucutshungulweni kweempahla. Libeka phambili iimfuno ezineenkcukacha, ukuthunga, uku-ayina, ukugqiba kunye nokupakishwa, njl.njl., kwaye licacisa iinkcukacha ezifana nokudibanisa izixhobo zeempahla kunye nobuninzi beetrekhi zokuthunga, jonga iTheyibhile 1-1. Zonke iinkqubo ekucutshungulweni kweempahla kufuneka zenziwe ngokungqongqo ngokweemfuno zephepha lenkqubo.
Ukuveliswa kwesampulu kufuna ubungakanani obuchanekileyo kunye neenkcukacha ezipheleleyo. Imigca yesampulu yeenxalenye ezifanelekileyo ihambelana ngokuchanekileyo. Inombolo yempahla, inxalenye, iinkcukacha, indlela yokutshixa isilika kunye neemfuno zomgangatho kufuneka ziphawulwe kwisampulu, kwaye uphawu lwesampulu oluhlanganisiweyo kufuneka lufakwe isitampu kwindawo efanelekileyo yokudibanisa.
Emva kokugqitywa kwephepha lenkqubo kunye nokwakheka kwesampuli, kunokwenziwa imveliso yeempahla ezincinci zesampulu, kwaye umahluko ungalungiswa ngexesha ngokweemfuno zabathengi kunye nenkqubo, kwaye ubunzima benkqubo bunokulungiswa, ukuze umsebenzi wokuhamba kobuninzi uqhutywe kakuhle. Isampulu ibe yenye yezona ziseko zibalulekileyo zokuhlola emva komthengi.
(4) Iimfuneko zenkqubo yokusika
Ngaphambi kokusika, kufuneka sidwebe umzobo wokukhupha itshaja ngokwesampulu. Umgaqo osisiseko wokukhupha itshaja ngu "Gqibelele, ufanelekile kwaye uyagcina". Iimfuno eziphambili zenkqubo kwinkqubo yokusika zezi zilandelayo:
(1) Susa ubungakanani ngexesha lokurhuqa, uze uqaphele ukuze uphephe iziphene.
(2) Kwiibhetshi ezahlukeneyo zeengubo ezidayiweyo okanye ezinesanti, amalaphu ahlanjwe kufuneka asikwe abe liqela ukuthintela umahluko wombala kwimpahla efanayo. Ukuba kukho umahluko wombala kwilaphu, umahluko wombala uya kukhutshwa.
(3) Xa ukhupha izinto, qaphela ukuba imicu yesilika yelaphu kunye nendlela imicu yengubo ebekwe ngayo iyahlangabezana neemfuno zenkqubo. Kwilaphu levelvet (elifana nevelvet, ivelvet, icorduroy, njl.njl.), izinto azifanele zikhutshwe zibuyele umva, kungenjalo ubunzulu bombala wempahla buya kuchaphazeleka.
(4) Kwilaphu eliyiplaid, kufuneka siqwalasele ukulungelelaniswa kunye nokubekwa kweebhari kumaleko ngamnye, ukuze kuqinisekiswe ukuhambelana kunye nokulingana kweebhari ezikwimpahla.
(5) Ukusika kufuna ukusika ngokuchanekileyo, kunye nemigca ethe tye negudileyo. Indlela yokuhamba ngeenyawo akufuneki ibe nkulu kakhulu, kwaye iileya eziphezulu nezisezantsi zelaphu azinqunyulwanga kakhulu.
(6) Sika imela ngokwempawu zesampulu.
(7) Kufuneka kuthathelwe ingqalelo ukuba ingachaphazeli inkangeleko yengubo xa kusetyenziswa uphawu lwemingxunya yekhowuni. Emva kokusika, ubungakanani kunye nokuhlolwa kwethebhulethi kufuneka kubalwe, kwaye kuhlanganiswe ngokweemfuno zempahla, kunye nenombolo yokuqinisekiswa kwetikiti, iinxalenye kunye neenkcukacha eziqhotyoshelweyo.
(5) Ukuthunga nokuthunga yinkqubo ephambiliukucubungula iimpahlaUkuthunga iimpahla kunokwahlulwahlulwa kube kukuthunga ngomatshini kunye nokuthunga ngesandla ngokwesitayile kunye nesitayile sobugcisa. Kwinkqubo yokuthunga kunye nokucubungula yokuphunyezwa kokuhamba komsebenzi.
Ukusetyenziswa kwe-glue lining ekucutshungulweni kwempahla kuxhaphake kakhulu, indima yayo kukwenza lula inkqubo yokuthunga, ukwenza umgangatho wempahla ufane, ukuthintela ukuguquka kunye nokushwabana, kunye nokudlala indima ethile ekuboniseni impahla. Iintlobo zayo zamalaphu angalukwanga, amalaphu alukiweyo, iimpahla ezilukiweyo njengelaphu elisisiseko, ukusetyenziswa kwe-glue lining kufuneka kukhethwe ngokwelaphu lempahla kunye neendawo, kunye nokuqonda ngokuchanekileyo ixesha, ubushushu kunye noxinzelelo, ukuze kufezekiswe iziphumo ezingcono.
Xa kusetyenzwa impahla elukiweyo, izithungo zidityaniswa ngokomthetho othile ukuze zenze umsonto oqinileyo nomhle.
Umkhondo ungashwankathelwa kwezi ntlobo zine zilandelayo:
1. Umkhondo wentambo yetyathanga Umkhondo wentambo yetyathanga wenziwe nge-suture enye okanye ezimbini. Umkhondo omnye. Inzuzo yayo kukuba inani lemigca esetyenzisiweyo kubude beyunithi lincinci, kodwa ingxaki kukuba ukukhululwa kwe-edge lock kuya kwenzeka xa umgca wetyathanga uphukile. Umsonto we-double suture ubizwa ngokuba ngumthungo wetyathanga eliphindwe kabini, owenziwe ngentambo yenaliti kunye ne-hook, ukuqina kwawo kunye namandla awo angcono kunentambo yokutshixa, kwaye akulula ukuwusasaza ngaxeshanye. Umkhondo wetyathanga eliphindwe kabini udla ngokusetyenziswa kumphetho wejakethi, umthungo webhulukhwe, intloko yejakethi yesuti, njl. Umkhondo wetyathanga eliphindwe kabini udla ngokusetyenziswa kwi-suture yomphetho we-seam, umthungo ongasemva kunye nomthungo osecaleni webhulukhwe, ibhanti ye-elastic kunye nezinye iindawo ezinamandla okuqina kunye namandla.
2. Umkhondo womgca wokutshixa, okwaziwa ngokuba ngumkhondo we-shuttle suture, udityaniswe zii-sutures ezimbini kumthungo. Iziphelo ezimbini ze-suture zinesimo esifanayo, kwaye ukolula kwayo kunye nokuthamba kwayo akunamsebenzi, kodwa umthungo ophezulu nowasezantsi usondelelene. Umkhondo we-suture wokutshixa othe tye yeyona mkhondo ixhaphakileyo ye-suture suture, edla ngokusetyenziselwa ukutshixa iziqwenga ezibini zezinto zokutshixa. Ezifana nomphetho wokuthunga, ukuthunga okonga, ukufaka ingxowa njalo njalo.
3. Umkhondo we-suture wokusonga ngumsonto obekwe emaphethelweni omthungo ngothotho lwee-sutures. Ngokwenani lee-suture tracks (umthungo omnye we-suture, umthungo ophindwe kabini… Umthungo ophindwe kabini we-seam wrap). Uphawu lwayo kukwenza umphetho wezinto zokuthunga usongwe, udlale indima yokuthintela umphetho welaphu. Xa umthungo usoluliwe, kunokubakho inqanaba elithile lokudluliselwa phakathi komgca womphezulu kunye nomgca osezantsi, ngoko ke ukuthamba komthungo kungcono, ngoko ke kusetyenziswa kakhulu kumphetho welaphu. I-seams ezineentambo ezintathu kunye neentambo ezine zezona mpahla zilukiweyo ezisetyenziswa kakhulu. I-seams ezineentambo ezintlanu kunye neentambo ezintandathu, ezaziwa ngokuba “ziindlela ezidityanisiweyo”, zenziwe ngumthungo oneentambo ezimbini kunye neentambo ezintathu okanye ezine. Uphawu lwayo olukhulu ngamandla amakhulu, anokudityaniswa kwaye asongwe ngaxeshanye, ukuze kuphuculwe uxinano lweendlela zokuthunga kunye nokusebenza kakuhle kwemveliso yokuthunga.
4. Umkhondo we-suture wenziwe ngeenaliti ezingaphezu kwezibini kunye nomsonto wehoki ogobileyo ohamba phakathi komnye nomnye, kwaye ngamanye amaxesha umsonto omnye okanye emibini yokuhombisa yongezwa ngaphambili. Iimpawu zomkhondo we-suture ziqinile, zithambile kakuhle, zinomthungo ogudileyo, ngamanye amaxesha (njengomthungo wokuthunga) nazo zinokudlala indima ekuthinteleni umphetho welaphu.
Indlela yokuthunga esisiseko iboniswe kuMfanekiso 1-13. Ukongeza ekuthungeni okusisiseko, kukwakho neendlela zokucubungula ezifana nokusonga kunye nokuluka ilaphu ngokweemfuno zesitayile kunye netekhnoloji. Ukukhethwa kwenaliti, intambo kunye noxinano lwenaliti ekuthungeni izambatho ezilukiweyo kufuneka kuthathelwe ingqalelo iimfuno zokwakheka kunye nenkqubo yelaphu lempahla.
Iinaliti zingahlulwahlulwa ngokwe "uhlobo kunye nenombolo". Ngokwemilo, izititshi zingahlulwahlulwa zibe ziintlobo ze-S, J, B, U, Y, ezihambelana namalaphu ahlukeneyo, kusetyenziswa uhlobo lwenaliti olufanelekileyo.
Ubukhulu bemithungo esetyenziswa eTshayina bubonakala ngenani, kwaye inqanaba lobukhulu liya lisiba likhulu ngakumbi nangakumbi xa inani lisanda. Imithungo esetyenziswa ekulungisweni kwempahla idla ngokuba phakathi kwe-7 ukuya kwi-18, kwaye amalaphu empahla ahlukeneyo asebenzisa imithungo eyahlukeneyo yobukhulu obahlukeneyo.
Ngokomgaqo, ukhetho lwezithungo kufuneka lube nombala ofanayo nowelaphu lempahla (ingakumbi kuyilo lokuhombisa). Izithungo ngokubanzi ziquka intambo yesilika, intambo yekotoni, intambo yekotoni/yepolyester, intambo yepolyester, njl. Xa sikhetha izithungo, kufuneka siqwalasele umgangatho wezithungo, ezifana nokuqina kombala, ukushwabana, amandla okuqina njalo njalo. Izithungo ezisemgangathweni mazisetyenziswe kuzo zonke izilaphu.
Uxinano lwendlela yenaliti buxinano lwenyawo lwenaliti, olugwetywa ngenani lee-sutures ezingaphakathi kwe-3cm kumphezulu welaphu, kwaye lunokubonakaliswa ngenani leemingxuma ezikwilaphu le-3cm. Uxinano oluqhelekileyo lwendlela yenaliti ekucutshungulweni kwempahla elukiweyo.
Ukuthunga impahla iyonke kufuna ukucoceka nokuhle, akubonakali ngathi kufana, kugobile, kuvuza, kungumthungo ongalunganga kunye nezinye izinto. Ekuthungeni, kufuneka sinikele ingqalelo kwindlela yokudibanisa, kunye nokulingana. Umthungo kufuneka ufane kwaye uthe tye, uthambile kwaye uthambile; umphezulu wempahla uthambile ngaphandle kwemibimbi kunye nokugoba okuncinci; umthungo ukwimeko entle, ngaphandle komgca oqhekekileyo, umgca odadayo, kwaye iindawo ezibalulekileyo ezifana nencam yekhola azinakufakwa intambo.
(6) isikhonkwane sezinzipho esinomngxuma wesitshixo
Umngxuma wokutshixa kunye nebhanti yezinzipho ezimpahleni zihlala zenziwa ngomatshini. Ibhanti yamehlo yahlulwe yaba ngumngxuma othe tyaba kunye nomngxuma wamehlo ngokwemilo yayo, eyaziwa ngokuba ngumngxuma wokulala kunye nomngxuma wamehlo ejuba.
Amehlo athe tye asetyenziswa kakhulu kwiihempe, iziketi, iibhulukhwe kunye nezinye iimveliso zempahla ebhityileyo.
Amehlo ePhoenix asetyenziswa kakhulu kwiijakethi, iisuti kunye nezinye izambatho ezixineneyo kudidi lweejakethi.
Umngxuma wokutshixa kufuneka uqaphele la manqaku alandelayo:
(1) Ingaba indawo ye-cingulate ichanekile na.
(2) Nokuba ubungakanani beliso leqhosha buyahambelana na nobukhulu kunye nobukhulu beqhosha.
(3) Nokuba umngxuma weqhosha unqunyulwe kakuhle na.
(4) kufuneka ibe nezinto zokunxiba ezithambileyo (elastic) okanye ezibhityileyo kakhulu, ukuze kuqwalaselwe ukusetyenziswa komngxuma wokutshixa kumaleko wangaphakathi wokuqinisa ilaphu. Ukuthunga iqhosha kufuneka kuhambelane nendawo ye-butting point, kungenjalo iqhosha aliyi kubangela ukugqwetheka nokujika kwendawo yeqhosha. Kufuneka kuqwalaselwe nokuba ubungakanani kunye namandla omgca we-staple anele na ukuthintela ukuba iqhosha lingawi, kunye nokuba inani le-buckle kwimpahla yelaphu etyebileyo lanele na.
Abantu abashushu (abasixhenxe) badla ngokusebenzisa "ukuthunga amanqaku amathathu ngobushushu obusixhenxe" ukuze balungise ngamandla ubushushu yinkqubo ebalulekileyo ekulungisweni kwempahla.
Kukho imisebenzi emithathu ephambili yoku-ayina:
(1) Susa imibimbi yempahla ngokuyitshiza nokuyi-ayina, uze uyisuse imingxunya.
(2) Emva kokulungiswa kwesimo esishushu, yenza impahla ibonakale ithe tyaba, inemiqolo, ithe tye.
(3) Sebenzisa izakhono zoku-ayina “zokubuyisela” kunye “nokutsala” ukuze utshintshe ngokufanelekileyo ukushwabana kwefayibha kunye noxinano kunye necala lombutho welaphu, umise imilo yempahla enamacala amathathu, ukuze ivumelane neemfuno zemilo yomzimba womntu kunye nemeko yomsebenzi, ukuze impahla ifezekise injongo yembonakalo entle kunye nokunxiba okukhululekileyo.
Izinto ezine ezisisiseko ezichaphazela uku-ayina amalaphu zezi: ubushushu, ukufuma, uxinzelelo kunye nexesha. Ubushushu boku-ayina yeyona nto iphambili echaphazela isiphumo soku-ayina. Ukuqonda ubushushu boku-ayina amalaphu ahlukeneyo yingxaki ephambili yokubopha. Ubushushu boku-ayina buphantsi kakhulu ukuba bungafikeleli kwisiphumo soku-ayina; ubushushu boku-ayina buza kubangela umonakalo.
Ubushushu boku-ayina bazo zonke iintlobo zefayibha, nokuba lixesha lokudibana, isantya sokuhamba, uxinzelelo loku-ayina, nokuba izinto zokulala, ubukhulu bezinto zokulala kunye nokufuma zizinto ezahlukeneyo.
Ezi zinto zilandelayo maziphetshwe xa ku-ayinwa:
(1) I-Aurora kunye nokutsha phezu kwengubo.
(2) Umphezulu wempahla ushiye amaqhuqhuva amancinci kunye nemibimbi kunye nezinye iziphene ezishushu.
(3) Kukho iindawo ezivuzayo nezishushu.
(8) Ukuhlolwa kweempahla
Ukuhlolwa kweempahla kufuneka kuqhubeke kuyo yonke inkqubo yokucubungula, ukusika, ukuthunga, ukufaka i-keyhole buckle, ukugqiba kunye noku-ayina. Ngaphambi kokupakishwa nokugcinwa, iimveliso ezigqityiweyo kufuneka zihlolwe ngokupheleleyo ukuqinisekisa umgangatho weemveliso.
Izinto eziphambili eziqulethwe kuhlolo lwemveliso egqityiweyo ziquka:
(1) Ingaba isitayile sifana nesampulu yokuqinisekisa.
(2) Ingaba ubungakanani kunye neenkcukacha ziyahlangabezana neemfuno zephepha lenkqubo kunye nempahla yesampulu.
(3) Ingaba umthungo ulungile na, kwaye ingaba uthungo lucocekile kwaye luthe tyaba.
(4) impahla yelaphu elinomcu womcu jonga ukuba isibini sichanekile na.
(5) ingaba i-wisp yesilika yelaphu ichanekile na, nokuba akukho ziphene kwilaphu, ioyile ikhona na.
(6) Ingaba kukho ingxaki yokwahluka kwemibala kwimpahla efanayo na.
(7) Ingaba uku-ayina kulungile na.
(8) Ingaba i-bonding lining iqinile na, kwaye ingaba kukho into yokungena kweglue.
(9) Ingaba intloko yentsimbi ilungisiwe na.
(10) Ingaba izixhobo zempahla zigqityiwe na.
(11) Nokuba uphawu lobungakanani, uphawu lokuhlamba kunye nophawu lwentengiso olukwimpahla luyahambelana nomxholo wempahla yokwenyani, kwaye nokuba indawo ichanekile na.
(12) Ingaba imo iyonke yempahla ilungile na.
(13) Ingaba upakisho luyahlangabezana neemfuno na.
(9) Ukupakishwa kunye nokugcinwa
Ukupakisha impahla kunokwahlulwahlulwa kube ziintlobo ezimbini zokuxhoma kunye nokupakisha, ezihlala zahlulwe zibe ziiphakheji zangaphakathi kunye nokupakisha kwangaphandle.
Ukupakisha kwangaphakathi kubhekisa kwisiqwenga esinye okanye ngaphezulu sempahla ebhegini yerabha. Inombolo yentlawulo kunye nobukhulu bempahla kufuneka ihambelane nezo ziphawulwe kwibhegi yerabha, kwaye ukupakisha kufuneka kube bushelelezi kwaye kube kuhle. Ezinye iintlobo zempahla ezikhethekileyo kufuneka zipakishwe ngonyango olukhethekileyo, njengempahla ejijekileyo ukuze ipakishwe ngendlela yokugquma, ukuze kugcinwe isitayile sayo sokuhombisa.
Iphakheji yangaphandle idla ngokupakishwa kwiibhokisi, ngokweemfuno zabathengi okanye imiyalelo yephepha lenkqubo. Ifom yokupakisha idla ngokuba yikhowudi exutyiweyo yemibala exutyiweyo, ikhowudi ezimeleyo yemibala enye, ikhowudi exutyiweyo yemibala exutyiweyo, ikhowudi ezimeleyo yemibala exutyiweyo, iintlobo ezine. Xa sipakisha, kufuneka sinikele ingqalelo kubungakanani obupheleleyo kunye nombala ochanekileyo kunye nobungakanani bokudibanisa. Hlikihla uphawu lwebhokisi kwibhokisi engaphandle, ubonise umthengi, izibuko lokuthumela, inombolo yebhokisi, ubungakanani, imvelaphi, njl.njl., kwaye umxholo uhambelana neempahla zokwenyani.
Ixesha leposi: Meyi-25-2024
