UKarl Lagerfeld wakha wathi, "Uninzi lwezinto endizenzayo zibonwa xa ndilele. Iingcamango ezilungileyo zezona zingcinga zithe ngqo, nokuba ndingenangqondo, njengombane! Abanye abantu bayoyika izikhewu, kwaye abanye abantu bayoyika ukuqala iiprojekthi ezintsha, kodwa mna andiyoyiki." (Umthombo: PClady) Karl Lagerfeld Basebenze kunye kwiFendi50, imizobo engaphezulu kwama-50,000, kwaye kwakunzima ukuzoba imibhalo-ngqangi "emihle neyomeleleyo".Abayilikufuneka nje babonise isiphumo soyilo, kwaye akufuneki babe nombhalo-ngqangi osemgangathweni omhle kakhulu.
Ngokwamazwi kaLafayette, sinokubona ukuba imibhalo-ngqangi yeenkosi ayiqhelekanga. Imibhalo-ngqangi yabo idla ngokurekhoda ugqozi lomzuzu. Iingcali ezininzi zinika ingqalelo engakumbi ekubonisweni kweempahla emzimbeni, endaweni yokuboniswa kwemizobo.
IiGalleries uLafayette Karl Lagerfeld zombhalo-ngqangi
Kuba ugqozi kufuneka lurekhodwe ngokukhawuleza;
Kuba zifuna kuphela ukubonelela ngengcamango iyonke yesimbo, kodwa kungekhona indlela eqhelekileyo yokwenza iipleyiti;
Kuba zikwagqibelela, nangona zilula kodwa zinokubonisa ngokucacileyo isiphumo osifunayo ~ le yeyona ibalulekileyo!
Okwesibini, njengeengcali zeuyilo lwefashoni~ Njengabalawuli boyilo, kufuneka baqonde kuphela indlela ngokubanzi (iprofayili yombala welaphu), baze banike umyili kunye nomyili ezinye iinkcukacha ukuze balandele.
Umsebenzi ophambili weengcali kukugxininisa ingcamango kunye nesitayile seempahla zale sizini, ngoko ke zifuna kuphela ingcamango yomfanekiso ngokubanzi kunye nezixhobo eziphambili. Olu hlobo lwemizobo edwetshwe ngesandla, olusebenzayo nolusebenzayo ngakumbi, lufuna kuphela ukubonisa isiphumo soyilo, aludingi ukuba nombhalo-ngqangi omhle kakhulu.
Umzekelo, umbhalo-ngqangi kaYohji Yamamoto ugxile kwimo kunye nentsingiselo yeZen yaseJapan:
Ijazi elimnyama elineebhutsi ezibomvu, elineengcinga zefashoni eziqinileyo zesitayile saseJapan seZen, ngabafazi banxiba ilokhwe kaYohji Yamamoto epeyintwe ngendlela epeyintwe ngayo, ebonisa iZen kunye nokuqonda okukhethekileyo.
Xa ishishini lemfashini lisabonisa ugoqo lwabasetyhini ngeethayithi zemveli zaseNtshona, uYohji Yamamoto unesibindi sokugqitha kwesi siko, ethatha i-kimono njengengcamango, enemiphumo yependant, egqumayo nejikajikayo, egubungela ugoqo lwabasetyhini phantsi kweempahla ezingathathi cala, edala igagasi elitsha laseJapan kwishishini lefashoni.
UYohji Yamamoto waziwa ngokuba "ngukumkani wokuthunga" kuba uqaphela ukuba "yonke idizayini ivela ekuthungeni". Akafane aqale ngokupenda impahla aze ayenze ngokwemibhalo-ngqangi, umzekelo woyilo lwempahla ongekhoyo kuye.
Esi sisizathu esinye sokuba imibhalo yakhe ingabi namsebenzi kangako, ikakhulu ivakalisa imvakalelo, imo kunye nentsingiselo, ngaphandle kokunika ingqalelo kwiinkcukacha zesimbo esifunekayo.
Okwesithathu, iingcali zinezakhono ezinzulu, ngokuthatha imivimbo embalwa, zinokufikelela kwisakhiwo esicacileyo nesicacileyo sendlela ilaphu elifunekayo libukeka ngayo.
Enyanisweni, ukuze ufumane isikhundla somlawuli woyilo, akukho mfuneko yokuzoba umlawuli woyilo oneenkcukacha ezininzi kufuneka nje aveze ingcamango, anike umzobo, aze emva koko ngoncedo lomyili okanye injineli yebhodi azobe okungakumbi.imifanekiso eneenkcukacha, ngoko ukuziqhelanisa kwenza ukuba baphumelele, banokuzoba ngokungakhathali.
Umzobo wokugqibela wesitayile uza kucaciswa ngokwendawo yezititshi kunye neminye imisebenzi. Xa umzi-mveliso usenza umzobo, unokubona umzobo ukuze uqonde indlela omele uthungwe ngayo. Ngokubanzi olu hlobo lomzobo wesampulu yephepha aluphumi. Ayifanelanga ngokupheleleyo ifaniso, njengogqirha onika umyalelo, ecwangcisiweyo emva kokubethelwa izihlandlo ezimbalwa, ubonakala udidekile, abantu bayalibamba iyeza kodwa ngokucacileyo.
Umzekelo, cinga ngoKawkubo, lo ngumbhalo-ngqangi ongekho ngqiqweni.
Njengoko sonke sisazi, ukususela oko kwaqaliswa uphawu lweComme des Garcons (njengenkwenkwe) ngo-1973, uye wala ngenkani ukuchaza umsebenzi wakhe —— " (umsebenzi wam) 'awunantsingiselo'."
Ngokufanayo, wala ukuthetha ngobomi bakhe. Uthe ngokuphandle: "Umdla kuzo zonke iinkcukacha (zobomi babucala) uyothusa. Ngokwahlukileyo koko, kungcono kakhulu ukwazi umsebenzi womntu. Eyona ndlela ilungileyo yokwazi umculi kukumamela iingoma zakhe. Eyona ndlela ilungileyo yokwazi mna kukubona iimpahla zam."
Ugqozi lwabayili luvela kwingcinga, kwaye ukungaqiniseki kwengcinga kwenza abayili bafune ukurekhoda izimvo zabo ezikhawulezileyo kunye nokuphefumlelwa ngexesha elifanelekileyo.
Akunzima ukubona kwimibhalo yesinxibo eyilwe nguKawkubo ukuba ungumntu othanda ukumodela okugqithisileyo, umbala oqinileyo kunye nesitayile esinemilinganiselo emithathu, kwaye unesitayile sakhe. Nangona imibhalo-ngqangi yala magcisa oyilo ibonakala ilula kakhulu, inokubonakalisa iindlela ezininzi ezithandwayo kunye neenkcukacha, i-silhouette, umbala, ilaphu, isitayile kunye nezinye ziboniswa ngokucacileyo kule mizobo.
Kwicandelo lobugcisa bokupenda imfashini, kufuneka uphile ubomi obude kakhulu ukuba ungafundi kwaye uziqhelise. Akukho mda ekufundeni, kwaye kusoloko kukho iindawo ezithile ezingaziwayo ezilindele abantu ukuba bazihlole. Ngexesha lokufunda kwakho, unokuziva ngathi wenze inkqubela phambili ethile, kwaye imigca yakho iya ithamba kancinci kancinci kwaye iqaqambe ngakumbi.
Iminyaka yoo-1970 yayiyeyona nqanaba libalaseleyo kumsebenzi wakhe wobugcisa, njengee-fireworks, isiketi esinemibala eqaqambileyo, elandela isitayile sasebukhosini saseRashiya samaTsarist, ukuya kuthi ga kummelwane waseMpuma.
Ukulithanda kwakhe ubugcisa baseMpuma kwenza imisebenzi yakhe yaba yimisebenzi yokuqala ebonisa isithunzi saseMorocco, eTshayina, eJapan naseSpain, waza wayila rhoqo ubugcisa besinxibo kunye neziqholo ezizele yimfihlakalo yaseMpuma.
Umbhalo-ngqangi kaSaint Laurent wade wenziwa ifilimu, "Les dessins d'Yves Saint Laurent". Kunye nembali yobomi babantu, ibali lobomi bukaYves Saint Laurent uYves Saint Laurent. Le filimu ikwabonisa imibhalo-ngqangi yakhe exabisekileyo. Ububanzi bobugcisa sisizathu esibalulekileyo sokushiya igama lakhe nemisebenzi yakhe kwimbali yempahla yanamhlanje. Ngokwembono yefilimu, umzobi oyintloko, onokuba ngumakhi wembali yefilimu, uluphawu lwesizukulwana sobukrelekrele obukhulu.
Ngamafutshane, njengengcali yoyilo lweempahla, uye waba yingcali, waba yingcali yokulawula ivili, kwaye uneqela elisebenzayo nelisemgangathweni ophezulu. Imibhalo-ngqangi yendalo iyasebenza ngakumbi kwaye iyisitayile soyilo lomntu, kwaye ayidingi mifanekiso mihle. Thina, thatha ixesha lethu kuqala... Qala ngomsebenzi omhle ~
Ixesha leposi: Matshi-28-2024
